Eating Locally in the Pacific Northwest

Dill Pickle Making0

Making dill pickles is an annual August/September tradition based on my grandmother’s recipe. We are duty-bound after all these years, family and friends now expect their quart at Christmas. Plus, it’s another way to remember a grandmother who left such a legacy for us, her love of gardening, food-making and the outdoors.     The time for pickling is right now while the small cukes are in season. Gather up the supplies needed and have at it - get organized in advance and the process is relatively easy.  As with preserving any food, cleanliness is essential so this is the time to be fastidious in the kitchen.

My grandmother made pickles from the cucumbers grown in her own garden.  We have a veggie garden full of produce, but no cukes so I buy freshly picked cucumbers at the Farmer’s Market - last year it was Stoney Plains, this year Alm Hill farms; along with three or four large bunches of fresh dill.  You’ll need several heads of garlic - we had some from the garden which survived the wet spring.  You’ll also need apple cider vinegar, salt, alum, quart jars, lids and seals. 

Dill Pickles:   Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Local Living, On the Local Table, Pantry, Produce

It’s Still Summer: Zupa Letnia0

I literally lapped up lunch the other day in my friend Sally’s backyard. She served a cold beet/cucumber soup with buttermilk and dill that was her version of a Polish classic, Zupa Letnia. I’d never tasted it, never heard of it, never knew a root-based cold vegetable soup could be fresh, light and utterly delectable.

I know, it sounds . . . er . . . interesting. I’m here to tell you that it was so off the chart delicious I haven’t been able to stop thinking about it since. The beet’s earthiness is transformed into a scarlet dream of a soup. Based on the Polish soup, Zupa Letnia, part of the appeal for me is that Sally put it together in a way that I can relate to. Some of this, some of that, whatever sounds good, put some in. At the heart of the soup, however, are the roasted beets, cucumber, and some buttermilk.

I asked her for a recipe. Trying to remember the how and what was a challenge, but she came up with one. That’s the problem with intuitive cooking. Once in a while you make something worth repeating and if you don’t have it written down there’s no way you’re going to remember the nuances of the process weeks later.

Here it is in all its glory with Sally’s comments italicized. You have to taste it to believe it. And, please, feel free to mess with this all you want – make it your own local, seasonal, summertime soup.

Beet & Cucumber Soup ala Sally L.:  Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Eat Local, Local Living, On the Local Table, Produce

Late Summer Savory Fruit Salads0

The fruits available this time of year — melons, peaches, berries — are so tempting but the truth is, I’m not big on baking pies, sweet desserts or jams. I love fresh fruit on cereal or in a smoothie. A perfectly ripened peach or melon with nothing else is a summertime treat I’ll be dreaming about next winter. Freezing fruit, especially berries, to use later in the year is always a good option. Cooler weather makes me crave more savory flavors, even if summer has not officially ended.

Last week Sally and I were photographing at Sazerac for Dining Out magazine. The chef brought us dish after delectable dish. It’s not exactly acceptable for us to sample while we shoot, but it was very tempting. One salad caught my eye and I decided to try my own version at home so I could nibble freely while I took photos.

Sazerac’s salad inspired me to think about ways to use our local peaches in savory dishes. I have no problem devouring a salad like this, all in one sitting, while a pie or cobbler could take me a week or more. I’ve used apples and pears in salads, but hadn’t tried peaches. Sazerac’s chef used proscuitto, not a local ingredient, but an important element, nonetheless. He also included those wonderful Spanish nuts, Marcona almonds. I knew the almonds would be tasty, but I wanted to make my salad as local as possible. I used goat cheese from Port Madison Farm, peaches from Billy’s and rustic arugula from my own backyard. I sprinkled some green fennel seeds , also from my garden, splashed on a little champagne vinegar and drizzled olive oil over the top. This is the perfect plate to take outdoors and soak in some sunshine while you sample and appreciate all the different combinations of sweetness and zestiness. Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Appetizers, Eat Local, Farmers Markets, Local Meals, On the Local Table, Produce

Sustaining Succotash1

The succotash I grew up with — frozen lima beans and corn — hardly did justice to the ancient origins of this combination. Originally, it was a Native American dish using two of the oldest and most important foods in our culture, corn and beans. Succotash doesn’t seem to be well known in the Pacific Northwest but is chock-full of vegetables available now in our local markets and will make a great addition to your summer repertoire.

Sweet corn is best eaten on the day it’s picked. Alice Waters reminds us that seeing a worm at the tip is a good indication that no pesticides have been used and that, of course, is a good thing. Corn on the cob is one of the simplest ways to eat it, but I love corn cut off the cob. Wrap up a packet of cut corn dotted with butter in foil, and place on the grill with your meat or fish — couldn’t be easier.

There are several methods for cutting corn off the cob and lots of kitchen gadgets to make it easier. It seems the main issue is containing the kernels once they are cut. For years, I’ve been laying the corn on it’s side and cutting it that way. I could have sworn Charlie taught me that method.

When I asked him to help me me with these photos, I was informed he has a completely different method. At least he humored me by demonstrating the “old” method, which I still believe is a good one. The new and improved way is to first cut off the stem from the bottom (the stem might interfere with making a straight cut down the side) and then cut the ear in half.

This will give you a flat edge to set the ear on vertically. A shorter piece is easier to control too. Whichever method you prefer, to make this succotash, you need corn from two ears.

There are lots of ingredients but you can buy practically everything fresh from local vendors - the only essentials are corn & beans. Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Eat Local, Farmers Markets, On the Local Table, Produce, Protein

Tomato Sauce Fiasco2

Surely among the top ten slow foods, tomato sauce. The reward for preserving them in late summer will be the essence of luscious vine-ripened garden tomatoes mid-winter in a soup or marinara sauce, with an onion and sausage frittata or mushroom polenta. I’m a fool for tomatoes and should make myself a tomato cape, something to wear everywhere to signify my devotion. It can get ridiculous and I just pushed the bar a little far the other day. Home-cookin’ tomato-preservin’ smarty-pants.

Since our own backyard tomatoes are behind schedule I thought it would be a good idea to buy ’seconds’ from Billy and make a batch of sauce now and then again later this month when ours will finally, I hope, come on like gangbusters. (Actually, there’s a big ‘if’ in that hope.) Bob tracked down Billy at the Sunday Market and purchased a big box of seconds, 22# @ $2.25 per pound. Total $49.50. When I heard that I knew this handmade sauce would also cost an arm and a leg. A pot full of tomatoes may look like a huge amount, but if you’re making sauce they reduce in quantity. A lot.

We ended up with barely four quarts. Yeah, you’re way ahead of me I know, that’s about $12.50 per quart. That’s a highfalutin’ tomato sauce. It took all afternoon – the Slow Food thing, no problem. I’m a happy camper when something’s brewing in the kitchen.

Lesson learned. From now on I use my own from the backyard, or pull off a midnight tomato caper somewhere. I’m chagrined about the cost, but the good news is that the sauce is amazing. Rich and tomatoey, it will be delectable mid-winter. If you can somehow find tomatoes for a song, or don’t mind the pricey version, you might want to make and preserve sauce of your own.

Here’s one way to do it: Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Eat Local, Farmers Markets, In The Garden, On the Local Table, Pantry, Produce

Go Green Again This Winter4

Dark green veggies are in the wings awaiting winter performances. I feel like I should whisper it, winter. We don’t want to think about it mid-August, but it’s time to get hardy greens going, past time for some.

A soothsayer would come in handy, someone to proclaim the most auspicious day for getting the little starts into the ground. It gets tricky. Plant too soon and if it’s a warm fall plants mature and flower before winter even arrives; plant too late and unexpected early cold can harm immature plants. Late July through August is usually about right, but as with all gardening the intrusion of unfavorable weather is possible. For example, we lost a bunch of newly transplanted starts during the recent heat wave, but still have plenty for ourselves and a few friends. Thanks Bob.

He started our plants from seed in late July - broccoli, chard, kale, Brussels sprouts and winter lettuce - then replanted them in fresh soil and a larger container when they reached about 3” and were getting crowded. We’ll transplant these seedlings into our garden plot in early September along with a crop of over-wintering beets.

Once they’re off to a good start little attention is required. They grow, produce their hardy leaves and stand strong through most PNW winters. The brassicas - kale, broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts - will last through the winter and improve in flavor when exposed to frost. We’ll eat chard and kale leaves all winter long, and in late winter/early spring we’ll harvest their florets which are as good as the primary vegetable itself. Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Eat Local, In The Garden, Local Living, Produce

Not too Late: Creme Fraiche Ice Cream1

Summer is winding down but there is still time to try some of those recipes you have been hoping to get to before cooler weather sets in. For me, making more ice cream has been near the top of the list.

I made a batch of creme fraiche to serve over Billy’s strawberries for dessert on Saturday night and had exactly enough leftover to try to make the creme fraiche ice cream I’d been dreaming about. Coincidentally, I saw a recipe for “Ice Cream in a Bag” in the NY Times a few weeks ago. I was in a low-tech mood so I thought I’d give it a try.

Basically, the idea is to put the ice cream mixture in a freezer bag, then sandwich the bag between two layers of salt and ice in a salad spinner or bowl with a lid for about 30 minutes. Halfway through, you knead the mixture and put it back under the ice to freeze. Problem is, mine never really froze. I know it was practically the hottest day of the year, but I gave it extra time and even had a fan on it.

Don’t get me wrong, it tasted divine beyond words. But, instead of consuming the whole thing as a decadent milkshake, I decide to call it quits with the bag and wait for my ice cream maker container to chill sufficiently to try again. I would need a thoroughly chilled mixture anyway and besides, it wasn’t a bad experiment for a steamy afternoon.

I couldn’t help but wonder if my expectations for firmness were too high so I did a little googling and found several recipes for ice cream made in a bag. You put the mixture in a small bag first, then in a larger one filled with ice and salt and tossing it around for 5 minutes or so. The main caveat being that somehow the salty water may get into the mixture. Not hard to imagine if a 10 year-old boy started tossing it around.

I opted to go back to the method using an electric ice cream maker, not low tech but tried and true. When it was done I sliced some luscious peaches from Rama Farm on top.

Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Dairy, Desserts, Eat Local, Farmers Markets, On the Local Table, Produce

Bread & Butter, Apple Butter0

You might think the glossy dark brown caramelized ‘butter’ looks appetizing, or not. I happen to know it’s delicious so to me it’s appealing, and besides I have to love apples right now. I have quite a few.

We’ll take as many as we can to the local food bank over the next few weeks – they welcome fresh produce that’s in good condition.  Or contact Tilth Hotline if you have extra fruit.  They have a Community Fruit Tree Harvest program that allows us/helps us to share the abundance.

Mine is just another backyard with apples ripening by the bushel. It’s happening everywhere right now. Poppy was making applesauce last week while across town I was making a crockpot full of apple butter. In fact, we seem to have the same barely identifiable old apple trees dripping with Transparents, and in our yard we think we have old varieties of Gravenstein and King.

Our house is one hundred years old and way back when was known as Goocher’s Orchards. Now it’s an urban lot, but with the added character of three obscure apple trees, relatively young pear and Montmorency cherry trees which we’ve planted, and the remnants of a beloved Italian plum blown down in the storm a year and a half ago. We’re doing our best to honor the legacy of this little bit of land - we seem to have farming in our blood so it’s not such a stretch. Go back just a few generations and we all have that in common.

The three apple trees ripen sequentially from July through September and we do our best to keep up with most of them by making applesauce, apple butter, apple-ginger chutney, a few apple pies, and a very quick and easy sautéed apple dessert (instructions below). Smear the apple butter on a piece of toast, or on a piece of cheese. Heaven.

Here’s the apple butter technique passed on to me by my grandmother. You have to be willing to let apples simmer away quietly in a crockpot for two or three days without much more than an occasional stir and the addition of more apple slices.

Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Desserts, Eat Local, Foraged Foods, In The Garden, On the Local Table, Produce

Eat Squash Blossoms, Dearie2

I’ve resisted these vibrant blossoms from Growing Things at the University Farmers Market until last weekend, knowing that once you buy them, you have to prepare them quickly — like that day. These beauties will fade quickly, especially if you put them in the fridge and forget about them. I had been resisting mostly because I wasn’t quite sure what to do with them. I thought — if nothing else, they are worthy of a photograph with their wonderfully bulbous shape.

I came home with eight of these squash seductresses, each more organically beautiful than the next. After doing a little reading and watching (Jamie at Home), I decided to take the plunge and try to batter-fry them. I know I should be a fried food expert coming from the south but the truth is my parents were not true southerners but carpetbaggers instead. I know next to nothing about deep-frying so this was virgin territory I was about to enter.

First I learned that you must carefully open each blossom and remove the pistil from the inside.

Next step was to mix up a stuffing for the flowers. I used goat cheese from Port Madison but ricotta is also recommended. If you use goat cheese, you may want to soften it by adding a little milk until it becomes smooth like cream cheese.

Put your cheese in a bowl and add 1 finely chopped hot red pepper with seeds removed, lemon zest, juice of 1/2 lemon, a big handful of chopped parsley, freshly grated nutmeg, pepper and salt.

Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Eat Local, Farmers Markets, On the Local Table, Produce

Summertime Fennel Salad3

Fennel, cucumber, fresh dill and tomatoes tossed together with lemon juice, olive oil, salt and pepper make a superb crunchy fresh salad. Others knew this already I’m sure, but for me it’s new.

I’ve been wanting to make something different in the salad department. It’s been greens from the backyard and the occasional ripe tomato with balsamic and olive oil dressing ad infinitum. Not so bad, we love it in fact, but enough already. It had become salad-making laziness. Time for change.

I had a bulb fennel from Whistling Train Farm and a half cucumber sitting in the fridge, a smidge of dill from the garden and whatever tomatoes I could harvest from our skimpy crop (so far). Mixed it all together and it was a spontaneous experiment that worked out deliciously.

Fennel Cucumber Salad w/Tomatoes: Read the rest of this entry »

Posted: Eat Local, In The Garden, Produce