Mixed Greens Blog

Halloween pumpkins look like the king of the mountain next to diminutive pie pumpkins, which are the ones needed to make a pumpkin pie.

Every fall my husband, who’s a good cook and an accomplished bread baker, launches into his one dessert specialty, pumpkin pie from scratch. (Well, he did once make a cake for his own wedding party, but that’s another story.)

Pies made from a can of Libby’s are so good it’s hard to imagine that the effort of baking and pureeing the pumpkin will be worth it. But it is. If only for the experience of finding out what goes into that can. Using the whole food, the pumpkin itself, is a great cooking adventure with kids who might be enlightened to know that pumpkin pie begins with an actual pumpkin and the can comes later. Plus, it’s made by hand in your own kitchen, baking the pumpkin is easy, and the end result is delicious.

Pumpkin Pie from Scratch:

Many pumpkins are great jack-o-lanterns, but not suitable for pies. They’re too watery and bland in flavor. A pie pumpkin or any sweet squash will do, a butternut for example.

Cut in half and remove the seeds from one medium pumpkin or sweet squash (two pumpkins if you want two pies). I’m told these seeds are not so good for toasting. I’m experimenting anyway. Place cut side down in a shallow casserole with a little water and bake at 350º until tender, 35-45 minutes.

When done, allow to cool, remove seeds and strings (or remove before roasting), and scoop out the pumpkin. You’ll need 1 1/2 cups per pie. Puree the pumpkin in a blender or by hand with a potato masher.

Last year it was Macrina Bakery’s recipe, this year Bob tried Alice Waters’ version from the Art of Simple Food. Both have been excellent.

Whisk together 1/4 cup cream and 2 teaspoons flour. Heat this mixture over low heat until it thickens. Then slowly whisk in 3/4 cup more cream. Continue to whisk until it reaches a boil and remove from the heat. It will be fairly thick. Set aside.

In a medium bowl whisk together 1 1/2 cups pumpkin puree and 3 eggs.

In another small bowl mix 1/4 cup brown sugar; 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, or 2-3 T if you like things on the sweeter side; 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon; 1/4 teaspoon cloves & ginger; 1/2 teaspoon salt and a pinch of black pepper.

Stir the sugar and spices into the pumpkin mixture along with the thickened cream. Whisk together vigorously. Add 1 1/2 teaspoons of brandy if you like.

Make your favorite *pie dough, prebake it, or not. Pour pumpkin mixture into pie pans, right to the top. Bake at 375º for 45 – 50 minutes. Test with a sharp knife or toothpick to determine if it’s done – knife should be clean when removed from center of pie. Allow to cool. Serve with sweetened whipped cream.

*Alice Waters’ pie dough recipe, from the Art of Simple Food: This is enough for one double-crust or two single-crust pies. It really is simple – you’ll need butter, flour and ice water. (Links to pie-dough making videos below.)

Prepare 1/2 cup ice-cold water

Mix together 2 cups all-purpose unbleached flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt if you’re using unsalted butter; add 1 1/2 sticks of cold butter cut into small cubes.

Work this mixture of butter and flour by hand with a pastry cutter, pulse it a few times in a food processor, or use a mixer with its paddle attachment. Then pour in most of the 1/2 cup ice water while still working the dough. Add the rest of the water only if needed. Pour into a bowl and with hands gently form into one large piece, then divide that in two.

(It can be deceiving when using a food processor, which I’m hooked on now for crust; the mixture appears to be fine and crumbly, maybe not the right consistency to form a ball. But, check it by gathering just a bit between fingers to see if it’s ready. I’ve found that it is, often sooner than I think.)

Pie dough should be handled as little as possible – it’s OK if there are small bits of butter visible, in fact that’s desirable. Gently form each piece into a ball and wrap in plastic. Using the palm of your hand, flatten each wrapped piece into a disk shape and refrigerate for at least one hour. Roll it out and fill with something delicious when you’re ready.