“It’s as if we have lost track of the fact that food is linked to agriculture, which is linked to human survival.” I read this in the NY Times just before heading to my Farmers Market the other morning.
When I arrived there were plenty of us sun-crazed, tomato-basil-buyin’, agriculturally-inspired city dwellers swarming around the market trying to find the perfect plant. Or radish. Genetically speaking, we all have a farmer-hunter-gatherer lurking within. We should care about this stuff, and I think we do. The article, World’s Poor Pay Price as Crop Research Is Cut (NY Times 5/18/08), was about the decline in agricultural research funding worldwide and the havoc, and I mean that literally, that is impending. I read, for example, that the tiny brown plant hopper is an insect that loves rice and is multiplying by the billions right now, unchecked, and devastating rice paddies throughout East Asia. This story is a global red flag - there are many others.
Jan Leach, plant pathologist at Colorado State University who works with rice, said, “Agriculture has been so productive and done so well, people have kind of lost sight of how fragile it really is. It’s as if we have lost track of the fact that food is linked to agriculture, which is linked to human survival.” This got my attention, because I felt that it might be true, maybe we have become catastrophically disconnected from agriculture.
I visited my Farmers Market with this in mind and thinking about both the naivete and good fortune which inform our experience with food in relation to the rest of the world. There is the exuberance and appreciation we demonstrate at Farmers Markets simply by being there. An invaluable connection is made as we walk from vendor to vendor, asking questions, borrowing recipes, conversing with farmers about the food they grow. And the visual cornucopia is something to behold. Profoundly different and better than filling a grocery cart and going through checkout. It’s a start.
Like others, we were on the prowl for our favorite tomatoes and found them at Billy’s, Stoney Plains and Langley Farms. Sixteen tomato plants, thirteen varieties are now snugged into the backyard plot. Sungolds, Black Prince, Prudence Purple, Green Zebra, Fourth of July, Yellow Brandywine, Vintage Wine, Orange Banana, Muskovich, Big Girl, and Amish Paste. Tomato love is kickin’ in.
When I arrived at the University Farmers Market Saturday, I saw a truncated version of our beloved market squashed to the edge of the parking lot where the vendors usually set up. It was hard not to be irritated by this intrusion caused by the University Street Fair. Many of the regulars were scowling and muttering disappointment to one another. Nothing was where it was supposed to be and several vendors didn’t come at all. I guess that’s what happens when you come with expectations. I remembered how easy it is to fall into a routine and take this incredible resource for granted.
Once I got over my frustration, I decided it would be a good opportunity to see things with “new eyes”. I stopped at Alm Hill Gardens and saw they had fava beans, something I’ve always wanted to try. I imagined myself at a market in Italy and there, I would have seen favas as a welcome sign of spring. I bought one pound — could have bought more — and started having visions of a lazy picnic with a verdant fava bean puree, my favorite croccantini from La Panzanella, an assortment of cheeses from Estrella Family Creamery and of course, a bottle of wine.
I’m sorry to say, the picnic hasn’t materialized yet but there is still time before the weekend and this glorious weather is gone. At the very least, my italian fantasy got me to make a pureed fava bean spread so I’m ready, just in case. My usual helpers went camping this weekend so I had to go it alone in the preparation. I enjoyed the process of popping the beans out of their tough pod and then removing the skin but it could be a fun group activity for those of us who like that kind of thing. Read the rest of this entry »
I’m not sure I’ll actually get around to doing this but I love seeing how it’s done. Clear Creek Distillery sells a very fancy brandy with a pear in the bottle. Check out this video from Cooking up a Story to learn how.
Just yesterday there was a billowy jungle in the backyard, towering, yellow-flowering stalks of kale and broccoli, Brassicas gone wild.
No longer compact and hefty broad-leafed plants, they were seven feet tall and graceful lanky versions of themselves. We’ve been eating their bolting florets for weeks, and in spite of ‘past prime’ they continue to be delicious. No embellishments needed, we’ve added handfuls to salad, and lightly steamed many a panful. Besides being versatile and hardy they’re chock full of healthiness which makes replanting them every August a no-brainer.
So, I thought I would photograph this Brassica jungle and then pick a bunch of florets to use in a pasta dish. My husband, however, had risen early daydreaming about planting tomatoes this coming weekend (they’ll have a protective cloche for a while), and made a place for them by taking out all of the flowering kale and broccoli plants. Landscape drastically changed and I had to salvage dinner from the compost pile, humiliating for me and the Brassica. (I think there’s a lesson here about spousal communication.)
With a pile of these flowering stalks, and another pile of random leftover cheese – doesn’t every fridge have some? – I concocted a pasta dish that we love and turns out it’s local: kale and broccoli florets from the backyard or a Farmers Market, a variety of locally made cheeses, and fettuccine from Cucina Fresca, a local pasta maker. The cheese sauce coats every inch of the pasta, the chives and leek add a tiny zing, and robust Brassica have always loved a cheese sauce. Bingo. With asparagus and radishes on the side, this is another mostly local meal.
We often have a Friday evening gathering of family and friends. Usually it is spontaneous and I’ll pull out whatever we have in the fridge and put together a couple of plates of appetizers. I’m always trying to think of new ways to use the same ingredients without having to plan ahead or work too hard. Lettuce wraps… why didn’t I think of them sooner?
Last week I was inspired by the return of our favorite lettuce vendor, Tolt Gardens (letusfarm@earthlink.net), to the University Farmers Market. I’ll have to say, Charlie loves Tolt lettuce more than anything else at the market. He usually buys more than we need because it all looks so good. Rather than fight his impulse, I decided to find more ways to use this delectable lettuce.
Inspired by Ivy Manning’s new book, the Farm to Table cookbook, “lettuce bundles” presented a great solution. I made them fairly true to her recipe and they were a huge hit. Watching everyone dipping and wrapping, I realized you can use lettuce to wrap just about anything or just dip it in any sauce and it makes a fabulous local appetizer made from things on hand. Ivy’s recipe uses several non-local ingredients that you can add or not, depending on your own preferences. Read the rest of this entry »
Unplug energy-wasting electronics, and then make a cup of tea. A lot of technology and often too little of nature characterize our lives these days. Unplugging techy accessories is for the environment, the Honey Mint tea is for unplugging ourselves, a yin and yang kind of thing.
First, the electronics. Environmentally speaking, this information, if taken seriously, can mean a lot to our planet:“Cell phone chargers, TVs, DVD players, stereos, microwaves and other electronics with transformers continue to draw power, even when they’re off or not charging anything, as long as they’re plugged in. In the U.S., such “phantom electricity” emits about 12 million tons of carbon into the atmosphere a year, according to Conservation International.” Alexia Elejalde-Ruiz, Green Living
Unplug the computer, the TVs, DVD players, cell phone chargers and so on when they’re not in use. Plug in the tea kettle. Make Moroccan Honey Mint Tea with lots of honey and mint, some green tea if you like, steep in almost boiling water for 10 minutes, pour through a sieve and into a cup. Have a moment.
And think about thissmall action toward sustainability that, practiced collectively, has the potential for diminishing tons of global pollution. Unplug electronics that use “phantom electricity” even when they’re not in use. Reconnect with Honey Mint tea.
Sustainability of household items is becoming an issue to be considered in much the same way we think about the food we consume. I find myself pondering questions — How was this item made? What transportation was involved in production and getting it on the shelves? How will I deal with it once it no longer serves its purpose? I don’t know about you, but I’m beginning to think about all of my “stuff” in a whole new way. If I get a new table, should I buy one that is made from materials that will last longer, has been built with a higher degree of craftsmanship and pass it on when I no longer need it? The longevity of certain pieces of furniture give them innate value beyond one human lifetime. There is something wonderful about eating meals on your grandmother’s table.
Another option is purchasing a product designed with an “end of life plan”. The idea is that you can compost it when you are done with it and it will be completely gone within a year. The company Looolo makes pillows and blankets from natural materials, such as wool felt, that could actually go into your backyard compost bin. There are even sofas being sold as biodegradable. (After learning this, I’m feeling guilty about calling the city when our neighbors started bringing all their furniture out in the yard and leaving it there, rain or shine. Maybe they were just composting…). Read the rest of this entry »
From a local farm to a local table, the art of eating locally is the general idea behind Ivy Manning’sTheFarm to Table Cookbook(Sasquatch Books, 2008).
Photo by Gregor Torrence
She uses local Swiss chard, spinach and feta for her phyllo pockets with a yogurt dill dip. Translate her ingredient suggestions for products from Portland, OR locales and use greens, leeks, cheese and eggs that can be found at Farmers Markets in your own neighborhood - this link shows what’s ripe and ready.
Thank you, Ivy, for creating and sharing a Pacific Northwest version of this classic.
This recipe combines tender Swiss chard leaves with spinach and locally made feta cheese for a tasty take on the Greekspanikopittaphyllo pies. The goat’s milk and sheep’s milk feta cheeses offered by cheese makers at farmer’s markets are usually a much higher quality than the salty, mass-produced fetas sold in grocery stores. I use the mild, creamy goat’s milk feta from Alsea Acres, available at Portland-area farmer’s markets and online (see Resources). Use the best feta you can find.
A New Family Farmer is a video produced by Cooking Up a Story, a site devoted in part to telling stories about real people and their connections to food and sustainability. It’s an excellent resource and this short video is well worth viewing.
Ever since I saw this recipe in The Herbfarm Cookbook, I’ve wanted to make it. Just give me some scissors and a chance to cut out paper valentines and I’m a happy girl. Fish cooked in a parchment envelope is so simple even instruction-challenged people like me can figure it out. Don’t worry, I’m going to give you some photos, since I could have used a few.
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
Start by cutting off a 20″ piece of parchment from a roll. The roll is 12″ wide. Fold in half lengthwise and cut out the largest heart you can make (hopefully you made these in school and can remember how). Cut out one heart for each fillet you are baking. Salt and pepper both sides of the fillet and place on the right side of the heart toward the center. Put herbs, lemon, butter — whatever flavorings you want, on top. I used chives, ribbons of sorrel, thin-sliced lemon and a pat of butter. Fold the left side over to line up with the right.
Starting at the top left corner, fold over the edges about 1″ deep a few inches long and then crease. Continue around the edge of the heart this way overlapping each fold until you have a pointy tail at the bottom. This part is hard to describe, but as you start following the edge, you will know how far to go with each fold. Just keep in mind the purpose is to completely seal the packet. Take your pointy tail and twist it several times. These packets can be prepared and stored in the fridge for up to 4 hours.
Place packets on a baking sheet and bake for 10-12 minutes, depending on the size of your fish. The only drawback to this method is not being able to tell if it is done without unwrapping. Mine were done perfectly in about 12 minutes. Open your “heart” and breathe in the lovely herbal aroma.
